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Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red,
1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool; steel knitting-needles.
This pretty boot consists of a shoe
knitted in red wool, and a sock in white wool ornamented with red.
Begin the knitting with the upper scalloped edge of the latter. Cast
on 96 stitches with red wool, divide them on four needles, and knit in
rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd rounds: With red wool, purled.
3rd to 8th round:
With white wool.
3rd round:
Knitted.
4th round:
* Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit
4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *.
5th round:
Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are knitted
as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3 stitches
were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing of the
preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be
decreased in this round.
6th and 7th rounds:
Like the 5th.
8th round:
Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.
9th to 11th round:
With red wool.
9th round:
Knitted.
10th and 11th rounds:
Purled.
12th to 30th round:
With white wool.
12th round:
Knitted.
13th round to 30th round:
Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the needle in the back part of
the stitch.
31st to 33rd round:
With red wool.
31st round:
Knitted.
32nd round and 33rd round:
Purled.
34th and 35th rounds:
With white wool.
34th round:
Knitted.
35th round:
Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each stitch
formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in the
next round.
36th to 38th round:
With red wool.
36th round: Knitted.
37th and 38th rounds:
Purled.
39th to 47th round:
With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if you were going to
purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped
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stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped
stitches.
Take now 18 stitches for the front
gored sock part (leave 30 stitches untouched), and work backwards and
forwards with red wool.
48th to 50th row:
With red wool.
48th row:
Knitted.
49th row:
Purled.
50th row:
Knitted.
51st to 85th row:
With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th round. But as you
work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit
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and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the
end of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the
85th row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work
with red wool.
86th row:
Knitted.
87th row:
Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit
1.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more
and knit plain to the 94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now
work with the whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge
stitches of the gored part and dividing them with the 30 other
stitches on four needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds
are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted
rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part of
the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in the
middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the two
decreasings. The number of stitches between the decreasings decreases
with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting lines meeting
in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by knitting together 2
opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part is edged with a
raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red stitches of
the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4 rounds, so as
to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside; then cast off
very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work row in the
sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to match. |
